Maybe It'll Even Work: Elinor, Ariel, and Yossi's Journey in Thailand

By Yossi Koren Prologue: The Race for the Accessible Room (or: How Do You Lock Down a Vacation in Thailand?)

Planning a family vacation to Thailand is always an exciting event. Images of palm trees leaning forward, deep turquoise waters, and the thought of the first fruit shake on the beach already get the heart racing. But when it comes to our trio—Elinor, Ariel, and myself—the "before" phase is quite a journey in its own right.

For most people, choosing a hotel is a matter of star ratings, proximity to the beach, or breakfast reviews. For me, searching for a hotel is more like a complex intelligence operation: the breathtaking photos on booking sites are merely the backdrop; the real drama happens in the small details. Is there a step at the shower entrance? What is the doorway width (where every centimeter above 70 cm is a whole new world)? And will my wheelchair be able to maneuver comfortably between the bed and the balcony?

The path to the happy booking was paved with route changes and re-evaluations. We started with certain ideas, considered one hotel, canceled another, and sent detailed messages to various resorts requesting straight-angle photos of the bathroom. Between comparing beaches, conducting rigorous accessibility checks, and counting down the days, our exact itinerary came together: an indulgent, quiet opening at a spacious resort in Khao Lak (JW Marriott), a magical continuation in Ao Nang (at the Centra Hotel), and a vibrant, lively grand finale in the heart of Phuket (at M Social).

When the final email confirmations arrived, promising that the rooms were ready and fully set up, the family breathed a sigh of relief. The bags were packed, documents organized, and all that was left was to board the plane, leave our worries behind, and set off...

July 14, 2026: Setting Off (Courtesy of the Middle East)

We left home at 9:00 PM, accompanied by a strange mix of excitement and anxiety.

On one hand—a new adventure lies ahead! This time with a cozy, unique setup: just Elinor, Ariel, and me. Without the hustle and heavy logistics of traveling with the entire extended crew—just the three of us.

On the other hand—Thailand, for all its charm, isn't exactly a natural reserve for accessibility, and every trip like this requires managing significant logistical maneuvers. Here, however, flying with older kids turns out to be a real advantage.

And on the third hand... well, the Middle East never fails to deliver impeccably timed drama. In the background, winds of war are blowing fiercely—news reports of peak tensions between the US and Iran, missile threats toward Gulf states, and us? We're preparing for a nice, relaxing layover in... Abu Dhabi.

"Are we really going to poke the Iranians right now?" the question echoed in the air. Will we even manage to take off? Will the flight be canceled at the last minute? Or will we arrive in the Gulf right as someone decides to pull the trigger? With all these thoughts in mind, we loaded the luggage and the wheelchair, and hit the road.

Operation "Step by Step" Begins

July 15, 00:55 AM: The plane lifts off from Ben Gurion Airport and ascends toward Abu Dhabi. The moment you settle into your seat, all the stress mechanisms of a traveler with mobility limitations kick into high gear. The first and most critical mission: ensuring beyond a shadow of a doubt that my wheelchair and electric power-add-on attachment will be unloaded with me for the layover in the Emirates, and not mistakenly checked straight through to Phuket without me.

• Step One: Landing in Abu Dhabi. The doors open, and both my wheelchair and electric attachment are waiting right at the plane's door, exactly as promised. A deep sigh of relief—step one completed successfully.

• Step Two: The Second Flight. Smooth sailing. At 6:20 PM, the plane’s wheels touch down on the runway in Phuket. Your heart always skips a beat by the baggage carousel during the unloading of specialized equipment, but here it all is, intact and undamaged. Step two—completed successfully!

• Step Three: Getting to the hotel in Khao Lak. Outside, our pre-booked transfer vehicle is waiting. Due to a minor misunderstanding during the reservation process, we ended up with a small BYD electric car. A quick glance at the trunk immediately reveals that the space competition between the suitcases, the wheelchair, family gear, and the three of us is going to be fierce. But who are we to be deterred by a tight squeeze? With a bit of resourcefulness, advanced Tetris skills, and one final push—we're all inside, driving through the dark toward Khao Lak.
  

At 9:00 PM: victory. We check into the JW Marriott in Khao Lak. The place is breathtakingly beautiful, the room is huge and fully accessible, and the exceptional Thai hospitality embraces us immediately.

Step three and final—completed with great success.

And as for Iran? Well, we didn't hear a peep. The Middle East is left far behind, and our only remaining mission now is simply to start having fun.

July 16, Morning: Unlocking Khao Lak at Our Own Pace

Yesterday we went to sleep late after a good dinner at the hotel, a round of unpacking, organizing, and settling into the room. We were so exhausted from the journey that we only opened our eyes at a quarter to eleven in the morning! We almost missed the morning entirely, but luckily we're in Thailand—the dining hall was still open, and we made it just in time.

After breakfast, I took my first solo tour around the resort. This hotel is a stunning blend of lush tropical jungle, manicured lawns, and an open beachfront, but the grounds are immense-so vast you genuinely need a map to avoid getting lost. To get back from the beach to the lobby, I had to stop and ask the staff for directions three separate times!

What I didn't know in advance was that the hotel offers guests a wealth of complimentary equipment and activities: from surfboards and kayaks to bicycles for riding around the grounds. And the pool? Excuse me, the pools—because this isn't just a standard single pool. The main pools and those flowing right beneath the ground-floor rooms are all interconnected into one massive water network spanning nearly a kilometer long! In practice, instead of a hotel with a pool, we got a mega-pool with a hotel casually built around it.

We spent a relaxed afternoon at the swim-up pool bar, and as the sun began to dip, we headed to the Bang Niang Night Market. A proper, authentic Thai market: we started with a mojito for the vibe, feasted on fresh fish, a cool fruit shake, and of course a warm banana roti for a sweet dessert. While Elinor got a pampering massage, Ariel and I kept browsing the stalls. Along the way, we spotted a colorful fruit stand, and I decided it was time for a culinary experiment: I bought durian. What can I say? Horrible. The smell, the taste—I have no idea why it’s called the "King of Fruits," but I fully understand why it’s banned in public places. The mangosteen, on the other hand? Sublime, sweet, and refreshing—a perfect palate cleanser. Calling that one the "Queen of Fruits" makes complete sense.

July 17: Water Buffaloes, Red Massages, and a Serene Friday Night

This time we managed to wake up a bit earlier, greeted by another sun-drenched day in Khao Lak. The hotel breakfast is extraordinarily rich and diverse, but Elinor and Ariel? They stay loyal to their fixed menu: fried egg, toast, and butter. No unnecessary morning adventures.

When we finished eating, it suddenly hit me: we’ve been in the kingdom of massages for over 24 hours, and I haven't had a single one yet! I decided it was time to right this wrong. Naturally, after the obligatory delay of "wait, we need to get ready" from the ladies, we were off. We headed straight for "The Reds—They're the Best" parlour, exactly as recommended by an Israeli family we’d met at the pool the day before.

The recommendation turned out to be spot-on. They did not disappoint—a truly excellent massage. I opted for a full-body treatment, while Elinor and Ariel went for a pampering foot massage.

When we returned to the pool, we met more interesting people, mostly from back home. That's just how we Israelis are—gregarious, seeking conversation, and it seemed the people around us shared that same energy.

In the late afternoon, we went for a very unique activity: "Water Buffalo Bathing." Behind the hotel lies a sprawling tropical garden offering an array of activities, most of which are completely free—from buffalo bathing and kayaking to bike trails, tree planting, a small petting zoo, and even a shark nursery! The shark nursery piqued our curiosity, so we signed up for it tomorrow.

Meanwhile, the sun began to set, bringing Friday evening with it. We went out for dinner at a lovely, very affordable local restaurant right next to the hotel. Afterward, we enjoyed a spectacular fire show on the beach and lingered a bit longer at the waterfront bar. We wrapped up the night relatively early, all three of us piling into the big bed for a warm, quiet family evening.

July 18: Sharks for Toddlers, Kayaks on a Sandbar, and the Holy Trinity

Today we set a new record—we woke up even earlier!

Right after breakfast (where "right after," as usual for us, means returning to the room first to "get ready"—because how can you start a new activity without a preparation break?), we went back to "The Reds" for another massage. If it works, why change it?

At 1:00 PM, after another necessary lounging session by the pool, we arrived at the intrigue-filled "Shark Nursery." Honestly? A bit underwhelming, and mostly suited for actual nursery-aged kids. The girls did see the life cycle of a shark from egg to hatching to baby shark, but that was pretty much the whole show.

Oh well, no harm done. Time for kayaking! The girls went into the water to paddle, while I stayed on the shore to observe and make a mental note: it's a huge blessing that neither of them is a sea captain by profession, or they would have run aground real fast—and not the kind of "grounded" you post on your Instagram story...

In the afternoon, we ventured out to the "City Center." A rather grand term for a single long street lined with souvenir shops, but that's what Khao Lak has to offer, and that's its charm.

During the evening, we returned to the night market for the real objectives: warm banana roti, sweet mangosteen, and a refreshing fruit shake. Say what you will—you can do or not do whatever you like in Thailand, but this Holy Trinity is strictly non-negotiable.

July 19: Buggy Parade, Scenic Drive to Krabi, and the Unnecessary Hummus

Today we woke up the earliest of the trip so far—because by 11:00 AM we had to be completely checked out.

However, we came into this morning with a winning card: the buggy golf carts. Somewhere after a day and a half into our stay, we discovered that the little carts roaming the resort paths were there for guest convenience, and you could even order one over the phone like a private cab. From here on out—no more walking! From the room to the pool? Buggy. Back to the lobby? Buggy. Need to get to the dining hall? Let's go to the further one (oh yes, there are two)—we're not actually walking, we're calling a buggy!

And so it was this morning. I phoned the lobby: "Two buggies, please—one for the luggage and one for the ladies." Me? No need, I've got my electric attachment.

We said goodbye to Khao Lak and drove south toward Ao Nang in the Krabi province. The road from Khao Lak to Krabi is an absolute feast for the eyes: winding roads between massive, sheer limestone cliffs rising abruptly from the ground, draped in vibrant tropical green. Along the roadside lie endless palm plantations, rubber tree forests, and dense jungle, interspersed with small villages and colorful fruit stands.

Most of the drive was accompanied by a light, refreshing drizzle. The Princess and the Queen Mother fell fast asleep in the back seat, while I spent the journey coordinating and finalizing tomorrow's excursion—a boat trip to Hong Island, an island some claim is the most beautiful in Thailand. We shall see...

Just thirty minutes before reaching our destination, the skies opened up and the sun broke through in full force.

When we entered our accessible room at the Ao Nang hotel, a surprise was waiting: for the first time in my life, I was assigned a room with two full bathrooms! Traveling in one room with two women, that is the equivalent of winning the lottery.

In the evening, we went out to eat. As a rule, I really dislike going to Israeli restaurants abroad, but we happened upon one called Sababa. Stepping inside, I told myself this was the first time in years I'd set foot in such a place—and absolutely the last. I genuinely don't get it: why order hummus or teriyaki sushi in a country whose local cuisine is arguably the tastiest, richest, and most diverse in the world?!

We capped off the evening with a beach fire show—a bit different from the one before, as this time the performers decided to involve the crowd. Ariel, feeling she was being recruited a bit more than her liking, backed away to the side just in case—heaven forbid we volunteer her to go up on stage...

July 20: Real-Time Paradise: Hong Island, the Hidden Lagoon, and Beach Monkeys

It seems every day on this trip sets a new record—this time, by 8:30 AM, we were all fully ready after breakfast for our trip to Hong Island (Koh Hong).

Our scheduled pickup ultimately arrived at 9:00 AM after the driver got lost, searched for me at a completely different hotel, and then had to double back to swap vehicles because his first ride was too rough and unsuitable.

But all the delay drama evaporates the moment you land on Hong Island. I am writing these words in real time, sitting on a small sandy mound overlooking the lagoon. Behind me stands a little wooden kiosk selling cold tropical fruit drinks. Planted in the golden sand around me are tall Indian Almond trees—I checked with Gemini twice to make sure it wasn't mistaken on the identification, and it held its ground. Flitting through the branches are Common Mynas familiar from home, along with a curious Blue Whistling Thrush hopping lightly between picnic tables.

Before me stretches a dreamlike lagoon with crystal-clear turquoise waters. This place is truly heaven on earth. Every now and then, a refreshing breeze cools the tropical heat, and even a passing butterfly pops in to visit. I’d say nature is calling—not in the abstract sense, but in the most literal, visual way possible.

Later in the tour, we sailed into Hong Lagoon—a hidden, magical bay entirely encircled by vertical limestone cliffs soaring straight out of the emerald water. We arrived precisely at high tide, when the narrow passage between the rocks is open, allowing the boat to glide inside the closed turquoise pool (at low tide, the water recedes almost entirely).

From there, we continued to two more spectacular stops: first, Koh Pak Bia, a picturesque island famous for the strip of white sand revealed between the rocks; second, Koh Lao Lading, rightfully known as "Paradise Island." It’s a shaded, sheltered bay wrapped in wild cliffs and deep jungle foliage. At this final stop, I couldn't resist—and with the help of the boat crew, plunged into the clear, warm waters.

We returned to Ao Nang exhausted, thrilled, and carrying hundreds of breathtaking photos.

Before dinner, we stopped for a pampering massage to rub off the day's weariness and the sea's bumps. We rounded off the evening with a great meal at "The Last Fisherman," right next to the hotel, sitting opposite the sun as it slowly sank between the silhouettes of distant sea cliffs. And to wrap up the day in the most authentic way possible—we caught sight of monkeys playing and scrambling along the beach at the northern end of the strip.

July 21: "At Worst, It'll Work Out"

Back to our old habits. But hey—we're on vacation, we earned it. We woke up at our leisure around 10:00 AM.

On the way to breakfast, I had a quick command chat with myself: "Yossi, no breakfast for you today! You're eating way too much here." I arrived at the hall, looked at the buffet, and my firm resolution melted in a second. I ate "only" noodles, fried eggs, fresh veggies, a bit of bacon (forgive me, but honestly you can't go without), and a few tropical fruits just to wash it all down with something healthy. Oh, and two cups of coffee.

From there—straight to a massage. Because if you're going to indulge, go all the way. Elinor and Ariel opted for the full package, adding a facial with frozen cucumber masks, emerging looking completely reborn. We spent the rest of the afternoon the traditional Thai way: splashing in the pool, sipping cold fruit shakes, and gazing at the sea and waves. Half a day of pure tranquility. Thailand at its finest.

Part two of the day started at 5:00 PM, en route to a viewpoint, cafe, and restaurant called Khao Thong Hill.

The story with this place started earlier. My instincts warned me that if a viewpoint is situated in the heart of Thai nature, it likely wouldn't feature classic European accessibility—meaning steps. Lots of them. I messaged the restaurant staff in advance to ask about accessibility. Their reply was brutally honest: "There are several steps at the entrance, and then another rather steep flight to reach the main deck... maybe better if you don't come."

Maybe better if we don't come? For me, a sentence like that immediately triggers a well-known mechanism: Tell me I can't, and I will. What's the worst that could happen? At worst, we succeed. Deep down, I trusted that we'd get there, handle it, and there would always be good people along the way to help out.

And I was right. The steps were indeed challenging and not very convenient, but any lingering worry vanished within a minute. The staff and fellow travelers jumped in right away, holding, supporting, and helping me navigate down the steps—and later, safely back up.

When we arrived, we understood why we made the effort. The restaurant is built as a network of wooden decks suspended directly off the cliffside, about 120 meters above the sea. Spread before us was a mind-blowing 180-degree panoramic view of Phang Nga Bay. Dozens of islands and wild limestone karst formations jutted out from the calm waters, as the sun began painting the sky in shades of orange, purple, and gold. A pleasant breeze stroked the deck, and the atmosphere was pure magic.

There we also reconnected with a lovely Israeli family we’d met two days earlier at the "Sababa" restaurant. We sat together facing the sunset with great food, cold drinks, and easy conversation, feeling on top of the world.

We headed back down satisfied, took another lively evening stroll through the town center, and around midnight crashed into bed tired but very happy. Tomorrow holds a full day featuring the Emerald Pool and the Tiger Cave Temple. It always amuses me that in Hebrew people call it "The Leopard's Cave" (Mearat HaNamer) when it's actually about tigers... but who has the energy for taxonomic debates right now? Goodnight, tomorrow we go see if there are leopards, tigers, or just cute house cats up there.

July 22: "You Won't Be Left Alone"

The driver arrived right on time, even a few minutes early. This time we were the ones running slightly late, but only a bit. A drive of an hour and change, and we felt like we’d landed straight into the Garden of Eden. I feel like somewhere around here the world was created, and this is where it all began.

The experience starts right on the walking track: a magical path about a kilometer long, built of elevated wood and stone bridges winding through wild tropical jungle. Surrounding us is dense green canopy shading the path, tiny water veins and crystal-clear streams crossing beneath our feet, small waterfalls gurgling peacefully, and clear turquoise pools glittering among the trees. A short walk through this tranquility—and there it reveals itself: the Emerald Pool, true to its name, a green gem in the heart of the forest.

Since it’s a completely natural pool, I thought twice about getting in. After all, there's no straight concrete wall or handrail to hold onto when getting out, just a sloping, slick rock surface. Getting in can always be managed, I thought, but getting out... getting out would be a whole different story.

And then Nissan appeared.

A impressively built guy with a giant smile and an even bigger heart, but what truly set him apart was his ability to read the room. He must have noticed me hesitating at the water's edge and casually tossed out: "Brother, if you need help—I'm right here." That small lifeline was all I needed, and I grabbed it with both hands. "Just one thing," I told him, "getting in is easy, but getting out is going to be a story." "Don't worry," he smiled with confidence, "I'm here. You won't be left alone."

Somehow, those simple words gave me all the confidence in the world. And hop—I slid from the chair onto the wooden ramp, took a few careful hops on my rear, and the wonderful Thai water wrapped around me. It felt like stepping into a warm, weightless silk hammock; the clear, smooth water embraced my body, and all hesitation dissolved instantly.

"I'm running ahead to the Blue Pool and coming back in a bit, will you be okay?" Nissan asked. "Yes, of course!" I replied.

I stayed to splash around in the pleasant water with Ariel and Elinor. Total serenity, a pure taste of paradise.

When we wanted to get out, Nissan was already back right on time. He quickly rallied a few more friends, and together, with a professional interlocking of arms and ease, they made getting out of the water simple and safe.

Nissan is a big guy with a huge heart, that much I could tell from the start, but during our conversation, it turned out he’s far more than just a nice guy: he is a educator through and through. When the war broke out on October 7th, he threw himself into teaching and guiding evacuated teens from Kibbutz Kfar Aza, walking an incredible path with them through deep sensitivity and emotional intelligence to get them to their high school graduation exams. We parted with a warm hug, each on his way, and I promised myself I'd look him up when we got back home.

Excited and energized from the first part of the day, we moved on to our next stop: the Tiger Cave Temple (I insist on calling it Tiger, not Leopard!) or by its Thai name, Wat Tham Suea. Perched atop a steep cliff at the end of 1,237 steps, the temple overlooks the entire province.

At first, we explored the lower grounds. The heart of the lower area is the natural cave that gives the place its name. According to local legend, a massive tiger once lived in the cave (and there are even rock formations inside resembling tiger paw prints). Today, the cave serves as the primary prayer and meditation site for monks. Stepping inside, you instantly feel a drop in temperature and an air of sanctity: natural rock walls, golden Buddha statues, the scent of incense in the air, and monks in orange robes offering blessings. Outside, the lower plaza is framed by towering limestone karst cliffs and dense jungle. Ruling the plaza with an iron fist are dozens of playful monkeys roaming freely, climbing pagodas and signage, mostly looking for naive tourists to swipe a water bottle or snack from.

Stepping out of the cool, shaded cave atmosphere back into the sun-drenched courtyard, just a few dozen meters away stands the gateway to the famous staircase. Except when we arrived, the girls looked up at the infinite flight of stairs climbing into the clouds, and then Elinor turned to Ariel and said with iconic composure: "You know what? You can see this temple just as well on Google."

The argument was so winning that we swiftly turned back to the car, which brought us straight back to the hotel's cool pool!

In the late afternoon, we stopped for a pampering massage, and from there went on to dinner at the hotel restaurant—once again, right by the sea and breeze. For reasons unknown, our dinners in Thailand tend to systematically end with warm banana roti with Nutella and a cold fruit shake. Tonight was no exception, save for one necessary upgrade: this time we also ordered a pancake (roti) with mango and Nutella—and in my opinion, this combo takes the gold!

Right before bed, a bit of technical ingenuity was required. I called the hotel maintenance technician to help fix my wheelchair's wheel axle. The spacer ring had slipped and fallen off during one of the times we dismantled the wheels to load the chair into the car trunk... or maybe it happened when we took it out? A mystery. Either way, within minutes the axle was back in place using a zip tie and a utility knife, and we went to sleep happy and ready for tomorrow's adventure.

July 23: Between Middle Eastern Tensions, Cute Elephants, and the 7-Eleven Romance

The morning opened with a somewhat less calming note: rumors of escalating conflict began blowing back home. Were the worries that accompanied me on the eve of our departure proving true? Maybe. But I decided we would deal with that when the time comes. Besides, as a practical and experienced guy, I’d packed two extra weeks' worth of medical and logistical supplies... so we're covered.

Meanwhile, life in Thailand moves at its own pace, and today we're heading to a ethical elephant rescue sanctuary. I hired the driver yesterday—the same one from the day before. Here's a golden tip for travelers: it is far cheaper and more convenient to hire a private driver for a specific attraction than to book an organized group tour. It gives you total flexibility with timing, costs significantly less, and gives you a shot at finding your lost spacer in his trunk.

It turns out Ariel's whole dream regarding elephants boiled down to one main thing: feeding an elephant up close. Once this historic mission was accomplished and both the elephant and Ariel got what they wanted, we finished our walk around the sanctuary and returned to the hotel relatively early.

From there, our forces split: the girls took a water taxi—a traditional Thai longtail boat—and sailed to picturesque Railay Beach, while I took advantage of the quiet and some quality me-time for another pampering massage.

We reassembled in the late afternoon. After refreshing showers and initial bag packing for the next leg of our journey, we went out for our final dinner in the area at Bamboo Beach Bar. This place is the essence of Sinai meets Thailand: a charming bar-restaurant built entirely of natural materials and bamboo, set right on the sand line facing the ocean. We sat among dim lantern lights, with the sound of waves lapping the shore as background music, and a peaceful atmosphere wrapping around us all. It was a flawless conclusion to this chapter of the trip.

On the way back to the hotel - how could she not? - Ariel forced us to step into 7-Eleven again. I'm starting to seriously suspect that this entire trip to Thailand was just her excuse to access this store chain... Not a single day went by where we didn't walk into one of their branches at least twice. And what was so intriguing to her there? Not the shakes, not the snacks, nor the air conditioning - it was the relentless hunt for special hair masks and some Johnson's skincare product she had to get. Turns out every traveler has their own holy grail on a trip, and hers was waiting on a shelf at 7-Eleven.

We returned to the room tired but content, ready for the next destination!

July 24: A Rainy Drive and Neon Lights on Bangla

3:00 AM: I suddenly wake up from a deep sleep to a strange, muffled background noise. I stay lying in bed, listening intently, and then it hits me: rain. And not just a light drizzle—a true Thai downpour.

At this time of year in the Phang Nga province of southern Thailand, rain is almost a certainty. It's the height of the wet season, and the fact that we’ve seen mostly blue skies and blazing sun up until today defied all statistical odds. But here, our streak decided to take a break, and the rain arrived in full force.

The rain accompanied us and showed no signs of backing off even as we loaded the bags into the car and set off toward Phuket Island. The drive, which took about three and a half hours, was a magical Nordic-tropical experience: the windshield wipers worked nonstop, wiping the glass over and over, while outside the landscapes of southern Thailand shifted—sheer green mountains wrapped in thick fog, flooded jungles, vast palm plantations, and small villages where locals took shelter under bamboo overhangs.

Despite the pouring rain and wet roads, the drive went smoothly and safely. Crossing the bridge connecting the mainland to Phuket Island marked the start of a new chapter in our trip.

The rain decided to show mercy and stopped just toward the evening. We seized the welcome break and headed out for Friday night dinner—a warm, comforting family meal that lifted everyone's spirits. I had a delicious Wagyu steak, while Ariel, as usual every single night, ordered "Pad Thai, vegetarian, no meat, but with egg." For Elinor, the regular dish: "Margherita pizza, and don't put tomato chunks on top!!!" After dinner, to feel the true pulse of Phuket, we took a stroll down famous Bangla Road. The contrast between the quiet morning rain and the nighttime madness of Bangla was absolute: a sea of glowing neon lights, full-volume music blasting from every bar and club, street vendors, performers, and a wild, vibrant energy unmatched anywhere else in Thailand.

We closed out a rainy yet experience-packed day, ready to see what Phuket has in store for us tomorrow!

July 25: From a Fleeting Allergy to Petting Cheetahs and Dining in the Jungle

Yesterday evening I noticed a mild rash appearing on my skin. At first, I didn't give it much thought—tropical humidity, mosquitoes, weather—nothing serious. But when morning came and the rash showed no intention of packing its bags, I decided not to take chances. In the morning, I popped into a small local pharmacy. The Thai pharmacist didn't even hesitate: a quick half-second glance, a definitive diagnosis of "allergic reaction!", and within a minute I walked out with an ointment to apply twice a day. Thai efficiency at its best.

After breakfast, we set off for Tiger Kingdom—turns out it's the same chain we visited two years ago in Chiang Mai. This time, the girls decided to go for a unique experience and went inside to pet a cheetah. There was something almost surreal about watching such an impressive, fast predator lying calmly, rolling over, and reacting to their scratches like a spoiled house cat asking for a bit more affection.

Toward the evening, we planned to go to the cute "Capybara Cafe," but by the time we finished getting ready, freshening up, and heading out, it was getting late. We changed plans on the fly and drove to Three Monkeys Restaurant—and what a fantastic decision that was!

This restaurant is simply an architectural work of art set in nature. Located deep within a dense tropical jungle, it is constructed entirely from wood, bamboo, and thatch. The structure features broad wooden decks layered at different heights among the treetops, beneath massive thatched domes resembling wild birds' nests. We sat among the branches, bathed in warm, soft lantern light, as the nocturnal sounds of the jungle and a cool breeze accompanied our meal. The food was excellent, the ambiance magical, and it felt like sitting in a luxury treehouse in the middle of a green paradise.

The kitchen offers a rich Thai experience—from fresh fish and seafood grilled to order, to aromatic curries and tropical cocktails served inside whole coconuts, alongside classic street food dishes served with elevated presentation. We, of course, stayed true to our trip traditions and alongside our main courses (the girls' usuals), ordered our beloved papaya salad (Som Tam), which was fresh, spicy, and exquisitely balanced. The mix of flavors, scents, and the enchanting setting made this evening truly special.

July 26: Phang Nga Bay, James Bond Island, and a Private Restaurant

Today is another sea day. The plan: set sail for Phang Nga Bay to see James Bond Island and a few other magical spots in the area.

When heading out on a boat trip this time of year, there's always a slight nagging worry about the weather. But as I’ve read time and again, in most cases heavy rain falls at night and lasts at most until 8:00–10:00 AM. While waking up to a rainy morning can feel stressful, in practice it doesn't mean the day is lost. Phang Nga Bay is sheltered by cliffs and islands, making the water calm and virtually waveless, so even during this season it’s an incredible experience.

On the way to the pier, I decided to make use of the travel time and logged onto my health insurance app regarding the annoying rash. The insurance offered a few options, and I picked an online video consultation with a doctor—after all, we're on the move and don't have time to stop at a hospital. The doctor looked at the rash and confirmed what I already knew: an allergic reaction. He directed me to switch creams and add allergy pills.

Around 11:00 AM, we reached Ao Po Pier in northeastern Phuket and boarded our boat. After about an hour of sailing, we arrived at our first stop—Koh Panak. This is a dramatic limestone island famous for hidden stalactite caves in its heart and internal lagoons revealed during low tide. We stopped to photograph the towering limestone cliffs jutting vertically out of the emerald-turquoise water.

From there, we continued to the most famous destination of all—James Bond Island. The site consists of two main islands: Koh Tapu—the iconic, narrow-based limestone needle that looks as if dropped from the sky into the water (gaining global fame in The Man with the Golden Gun), and Khao Phing Kan, which translates to "leaning rocks," named after the massive leaning rock slabs resting against each other to form shadowed passages.

At our next stop, Koh Hong—whose name in Thai means "room," referring to the sheltered internal lagoon hidden at its center surrounded by steep cliffs and lush vegetation—the girls went into the water to kayak and explore the sea caves. This was a different side of the island we hadn't visited on our previous trip. I preferred the "lounge on the deck" version: I stayed above with a warm cup of coffee, struck up a pleasant chat with an Indian tourist who also skipped kayaking, and watched sea birds try their luck at fishing.

Around 5:00 PM, as the sun began to drop and cast golden rays across the water, we pulled up anchor one last time and headed back to the pier.

At 8:30 PM, after refreshing showers, we went down for a three-course dinner hosted by the hotel restaurant. To our surprise, we discovered we were the only guests in the place—an entire restaurant, complete with full kitchen staff and waiters, dedicated solely to us. Ariel almost choked with laughter when the waiter, trying extra hard to impress, asked if she wanted her Pad Thai "VegeteLian." That's just how it is—they don't really have the "R" sound.

July 27: Capybaras, a Tire-Loving Tortoise, and the Roti Crown

We kicked off the morning with a relaxed breakfast, after which the girls headed off for some quality pool time.

Later, we set out for the new Capybara Coffee Phuket Laguna, located in the scenic Laguna area of Phuket. It’s not just a coffee shop, but a charming open-air mini petting zoo styled with a green, rustic feel. Alongside the famous capybaras—the world’s largest, most peaceful rodents—the compound houses various farm animals: miniature goats, meerkats, rabbits, odd-looking chickens, ducks, and tortoises roaming freely.

Ariel got a bucket packed with capybara food and veggies and enthusiastically set off to feed the residents, especially the capybaras, who responded with their signature calm. I, on the other hand, found myself in a slightly different situation: a massive, stubborn giant tortoise decided to fixate specifically on my wheelchair. I tried to dodge him, with limited success, as he crawled determinedly toward my wheels. Honestly? I had no issue with him inspecting them up close, but something about his focused gaze made me worry he was going to try and take a bite out of my tires...

After all the activity in the heat, I returned to the hotel thoroughly exhausted and fell into a deep, refreshing nap.

Toward evening, we went for a well-earned massage—surprisingly, our first since arriving in Phuket, so it was time to break the fast. From there, we moved on to a great dinner.

We spent the second half of the evening taking a lively walk along Bangla Road, but not before a quick shopping trip—because let's face it, souvenir shopping is mandatory. There, we logged another "Phuket first": a hot, sweet banana roti from a street stall! As devout fans of the dessert, we immediately launched into strict comparisons against the rotis tested at previous stops. The verdict was unanimous: the banana roti from Krabi still holds the undefeated title for tastiest in Thailand!

Satisfied, sugared up, and tired, we headed back to the hotel and straight to bed.

July 28: Parasailing, "The Spicy Stranger," and Thailand's Farewell Storm

Last morning, last breakfast, last day - and our luck held out to the very last moment: the sun is shining in full force and it's hot. We're going to the beach!

We set up at Patong Beach; while it’s not the prettiest beach here, it’s close and within walking distance. Besides, to work on your tan, you don't strictly need deep turquoise water inside a lagoon next to a beach bar—a sunbed is enough, along with someone offering a cold fruit shake every now and then.

I reached my limit with static sitting pretty quickly. A quick glance right, left, and out into the water revealed parasailing operators. I asked if it was possible for me, and when they agreed—I decided: let's do it! It was an incredible experience; they strapped me into the gear while I was sitting in my chair, the boat approached, they hooked me up, and on signal, everyone helped lift me into the air. Boom - I was gliding high above, taking in the gorgeous view of the entire coastline from above. Upon landing, I met the crew again, who gently set me down directly into my chair.

In the (final) afternoon, we went for our (final) massage. I passed and waited for the girls outside, passing the time chatting with the masseuses on their break. During our chat, a vendor with a food cart came down the street, and they gathered around him to buy an afternoon meal. I decided to join in. They didn't quite understand, let alone believe me, when I asked to buy a portion for myself.

"But it's spicy!" they warned me. "I certainly hope so," I replied, taking a plate of minced meat with I-don't-know-what-else inside—but it was delicious.

At that point, I should have charged admission... I felt like the lead actor in a show called "The Spicy Stranger": I ate, while they, instead of eating their own meals, stood around me in suspense, waiting to see when I'd break and start sweating from the heat. Truth be told? I’ve eaten far spicier things in my life. They couldn't believe their eyes—especially when I ate the whole chili pepper included in the dish. One of them ran to get me a glass of water anyway, just in case. Thanks for the concern, but it really wasn't necessary!

The girls finished their massage, and we went out together for one last dinner, this time at a restaurant decorated with a tiger theme. I ordered my 14th and final papaya salad of this trip—a wonderful finish, and one of the tastiest I’ve had.

While we were eating, a massive downpour started. I was actually wondering where the rain had been all day... When we finished, we walked to the mall adjacent to the hotel for final purchases and one absolute final banana roti.

It's already 11:00 PM, and we're making final preparations in the room before leaving for the airport. The rain, by the way, is still here - pouring throughout the entire drive to the airport and during takeoff.

July 29, 2026, 3:30 AM

The lights of Phuket drift further away beneath the airplane wing. We're on our way to our layover, heading home.

As I sum up this journey, I realize that beyond the breathtaking landscapes, magical pools, and vibrant night markets—what truly stays engraved in the heart is our togetherness. The cozy, intimate dynamic of the three of us—Elinor, Ariel, and me—allowed us to slow down, look each other in the eye, laugh heartily over some logistical maneuver or weird food, and feel closer than ever.

In the face of every steep step, accessibility challenge, or unplanned plot twist, we proved to ourselves once again that with determination, humor, and with Elinor and Ariel by my side—the spirit knows no bounds, and there is no obstacle that can't be overcome with a smile. Thailand gave us pure moments of peace, liberating laughter, and true freedom. I'm heading home with a bag full of 7-Eleven hair masks and deep gratitude—for the journey, for my family, and for the privilege of writing another exciting, empowering chapter in our life story together.